Nr Helmsley, North Yorkshire.

To be honest, I haven’t appreciated our history and heritage as much as I do now – is it because I’m getting older, perhaps. To stand in awe of a magnificent ruin – one such as Rievaulx Abbey – would fill me with sadness that such damage and decay had taken place, but I now come to realise that without such intervention, I wouldn’t have this opportunity to treasure our past and be standing here now in admiration.

Rievaulx Abbey was one of the great abbeys until being seized in 1538 under Henry V111 during his destruction of the monasteries. Founded in the 12th century this was the first Cistercian religious house to be established in the North of England. It became one of the most powerful and spiritually renowned centres in Britain. The splendour of the architecture is clear, a place where time ceases to exist.

The structure is huge, with so much preserved since being taken into state guardianship in 1917 (later to become English Heritage). Over the years the abbey has become a subject for romantic art, with many visitors from far afield – and make sure when you watch the film Transformers-5 to note the background.

Throughout the years the river Rye was of extreme importance to this site; to make more room for the monastery the community diverted the course of the river. The monks used an ingenious engineering solution to harness the water supply that allowed them to have fresh water on tap. With over 600 men inhabiting the abbey from an early age, including lay brothers and servants, the monks were largely vegetarian, growing their own food and caring for animals, using sheep to sell their prized fleeces – in a trade network that reached as far as Italy – the abbey became very rich. In 1322 war between England and Scotland brutally invaded the serenity of the cloister. Epidemics devastated the flocks, leaving the monastery in debt and the black death in the middle 14th century took a heavy toll.

Over the years, additions to the building have been added, with the darker walls being from the first church, whereas the lighter stone marks the rebuilding of the Abbey Church. Additional financial support came from important benefactors who believed that burial at the abbey would hasten their passage through purgatory to heaven. After the closure in 1538 the structure suffered from pillaging of its contents and rapidly reduced to ruins with stone, lead and timber taken to build local cottages and at the beginning of the 20th century the monastery ruins were in a state of imminent collapse. Thankfully, the site as it exists today is very much the creation of Sir Charles Peers, whose main concern was to remove all fallen material and conserve what remained in place.

A new museum and shop are on site and being members hubby and I were offered free information recorders that hung around the neck. The admission staff were extremely friendly and knew their stuff. We stopped off in the café and had a lovely coffee and sausage roll.

A seven-mile circular Helmsley to Rievaulx Abbey walk takes in sweeping views of the town and castle before dropping down through charming woods. Taking about four hours from start to finish, starting at the Cleveland Way car park in Helmsley, have to say we didn’t actually attempt the walk that day though.

Byland Abbey

The remains of the buildings, particularly the Great Church defy gravity, although not on the scale of Rievaulx Abbey but nonetheless you wonder how they still remain standing so proud. The original medieval floor tiles still survive in places and you are asked not to walk on them for their protection. 

On weekends volunteer staff happily answer questions and arrange tours (weather dependent of course) and run the small bookshop. There is a small car park opposite – next to a lovely pub.  

The allure of these magical structures, where time stands still is beyond words for me and both are magnificently bewitching. I realise that our future developments come from understanding our past, we should respect and embrace it – not destroy it, whatever the wrongs. To eradicate the past doesn’t allow us to learn from our mistakes, indulge and learn my friends, believe me it will be truly inspiring.

Always check the website before setting off. Now I’m off trying to teach hubby to appreciate the allure of ‘aging beauty’ – take the hint hubby!