Somerset.
Well, well, well – for the lovers of historic buildings, sacral architecture and a stunning city hosting weekly markets, annual festivals and voted Somerset’s best place to live, then Wells is for you. Located on the southern edge of the Mendip Hills, close to Weston-Super-Mare, Bath and Bristol. With its cobbled streets, many independent shops, eateries and period buildings – it just oozes history. If you think certain establishments look familiar, most of the action for the hit film Hot Fuzz was filmed here.
Diverse landscapes ranging from coastal, heathland, dry stone walls to flat grazing land. Whether your bag is walking, cycling or nature watching there is plenty to see and do. This popular tourist destination with its proximity to Cheddar Gorge, Wookey Hole, Stonehenge or Shepton Mallet, our English heritage certainly comes into its own, showcasing beautiful properties, gardens, gorges and abbeys – I could wax lyrical all day (as hubby will happily testify).
We visited Wells during one of its market days (Wednesday and Saturday) with an abundance of local producers along with arts and crafts, the town was buzzing with eateries filled to the brim.
The magnificent Cathedral built between 1175 and 1490 is incredible, built in the Gothic style with unique features including breathtaking ‘scissor arches’ which support the central tower. Its easy to mistake the calm and light structures for a modern design, with its historic stained-glass windows, contemporary artwork and an unusually grand chapel, built between 1275 and 1292 and used throughout centuries for private prayer. The carved vaulted ceiling is incredible and do take a look at the astronomical Wells Clock – one of the oldest clock faces in the world and dating from around 1390. Every quarter hour bells chime and figures move around the clock. Fascinating.
Be sure to pop up to the Chapter House, a remarkable octagonal shaped room, completed in 1306 as a meeting place. Notice the stairs, worn from thousands of feet over the centuries, amazing. At the time of our visit suspended above the nave were thousands of paper Peace Doves, carrying messages of peace, hope and love. All contributed by school children and members of community groups. It’s a unique experience – the scale and beauty reflect serenity.
Adjoining the Cathedral finds Vicars Close, with its cobbled road is believed to be the only complete medieval street left in England. This 14th century row built as a residence for the men of the choir to keep them away from the temptations of the town. The houses are still in use today for the Vicars Choral, organists and vergers.
Look no further than next door – the Bishops Palace is a wow, and has been home to the Bishops of Bath & Wells for over 800 years. Entering from the market place through the Bishops Eye, being confronted with a moat – a tributary of the River Sheppey and home to a family of swans, a gatehouse with drawbridge and ramparts, topped with crenelations – walk under the portcullis and into a palace of enchantment. Surrounding the palace is 14 acres of Grade 11 listed gardens to explore with family fun events, guided tours and a lovely café with spectacular views. We purchased a joint ticket for £20pp which allows entry to both these wonders. A good price we thought. The Great Hall whose ruins stand proud, sadly only two walls and the four corner turrets have survived. Its size reflects the power held by the bishops, at one banquet in 1337 guests consumed 86 casks of wine, 340 casks of beer, 672 loaves of bread plus fish and meat! In contrast to the wealth the Penniless Porch built around 1450 for beggars who would ask for Alms (food or money). Walking through the rooms, seeing how the bishops lived, with the large fireplaces and the grand dining room, was an experience. The unusually grand chapel, (1275 and 1292) has been used throughout centuries for private prayer. With patterns of stone tracery and exceptional medieval carved detail of the ceiling. Quite alluring and reflective. In an enclosed glass cabinet finds the Coronation Cope, altered through the years to suit the stature of successive Bishops, including for our beloved and sadly missed Queen Elizabeth 11.
Outside, in the alluring gardens you will discover the source of four springs, which in former times emerged from the wells and the Mendip Hills, forming pools which overflowed into a jumble of streams, now forming a series of man-made pools. The ancient Well House (circa 1451) was granted to the town to supply fresh water from the wells.
Further in town, not to be missed, is St Cuthberts Church, built in the 13th century and often mistaken for the Cathedral. This Grade 1 listed building is spectacular and definitely worth popping into for its painted ceiling with mesmerising angels, intriguing crests and symbols.
All in all a lovely day, so much to see, so much character and filled with lovely happy people.